DIY Doghouse: How to Build a Simple A-Frame

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DIY Doghouse: How to Build a Simple A-Frame

Admin December 25, 2024 0 Comments

Build this easy DIY doghouse and give your best buddy a cozy space to take naps and escape the weather.

Aplace to escape the elements is a must for dogs that spend any time outdoors. This DIY doghouse project will take you through the steps to build a classic A-frame from a single sheet of plywood and some dimensional lumber. Remember that your doghouse should be proportionate to your dog. Bigger is not necessarily better, because dogs tend to feel more secure in small spaces. Also, a properly sized doghouse helps your pet use its natural body heat to warm the interior and stay comfortable during cold weather.

Simple A-Frame Doghouse You Can Build Yourself
This project is for a small- to medium-sized dog, up to about 50 pounds. You’ll be able to cut all the main parts of the house from a single sheet of 3/4-inch-thick exterior-grade plywood. Wood is a natural insulator that helps keep your doghouse cooler in summer, and warmer in winter. Your dog’s safety is a priority, so use good quality plywood and wood that’s free of checks and splinters. Use pressure-treated wood only for the base where your pet can’t chew on it — pressure-treated wood contains chemicals that could harm your dog. Plan to stain or paint the doghouse using low-VOC finishes.

Tools + Materials

  • 1-3/8-inch spade bit with spur cutters
  • hand stapler
  • brush
  • utility knife with regular and shingle-cutting hook blades
  • drill with screw-driving attachment & assorted drill bits and countersink bit
  • sawhorses
  • miter saw
  • orbital sander & medium-grit sandpaper
  • hammer
  • circular saw with plywood-cutting blade
  • framing square
  • clamps
  • jigsaw with cross-cut blade
  • 2×2 x 6′ fir or cedar board
  • 2×4 x 8′ pressure-treated board
  • 1-1/4″ galvanized wood screws
  • low-VOC paint or stain
  • 15-lb. asphalt-impregnated felt roofing paper
  • 3/4″ sheet of exterior-grade plywood (not pressure-treated)
  • 3″ galvanized wood screws
  • 3/4″ galvanized roofing nails
  • roofing cement
  • 1 bundle (or about 12) 3-tab asphalt shingles
  • 3/8″ galvanized staples
Cut List:

Cut the 2×4 into four pieces for the base:
• two at 22-1/2“ long
• two at 23” long

Cut the 2×2 fir or cedar into 8 pieces for the framing:
• four corner framing 15” long
• four roof framing 13” long

Lay Out the Pieces

First, you’ll want to transfer the dimensions from the PLAN DIAGRAM to the plywood (Image 1). Use a straightedge and framing square to reproduce the diagram on the sheet of plywood (Image 2). Note that on the layout, no pieces are touching each other so that the width of the saw blade cut — the kerf — will not alter any dimensions.

Make the doorway about 10 inches wide and 13 inches high. Leave a 3-inch-tall lip at the bottom of the hole to cover the base and bottom panel. The door height opening should be about 3/4 of the dog’s height. Large doors aren’t necessary as dogs prefer to duck to enter a doghouse — it makes them feel that they’re entering a cozy and protected space. Plus, it’s a good idea to have the entry as small as possible to help retain heat in the winter and keep out weather. Use any convenient round shape to help you form the arched top of the entryway — a dinner plate, Frisbee, or pot cover works fine (Image 3).

Cut Out the Pieces

Cut all box parts from the plywood. Clamp the work piece firmly to your sawhorses before making any cuts. Use a sharp cross-cut blade to reduce chips and splintering. Work slowly and let the saw do the work to ensure straight, splinter-free cuts. It won’t matter if you decide to cut directly on the lines you’ve drawn, or on the inside or outside edge of each line. However, once you decide how you’ll make your cuts, be consistent to ensure that all the pieces fit together properly (Image 1).

When cutting the roof panels, cut one long edge of each roof panel with the saw blade set at a 45-degree angle. This bevel cut will ensure a tight fit at the roof peak. Set the shoe of your circular saw at 45-degrees, and always unplug the saw before making any adjustments. When cutting, make sure to watch the blade as you follow your cut line. Don’t rely on the cutting guide on the shoe of the saw or your cut will be off. After you finish this bevel cut, one side of each roof panel will be slightly wider than the other. The wider surface should be the 20-inch dimension as indicated on the diagram, and is the upper side of each roof panel — forming the point of the 45-degree roof peak. Return your saw blade to the 90-degree position before cutting each roof panel to length.

Use a jigsaw with a plywood-cutting blade to cut out the doorway (Image 2). First, drill a 3/8-inch diameter starter hole for the jigsaw blade at each bottom corner of the entry hole. Follow the lines carefully, and support the cutout piece as you finish the cut to prevent tear-out.

If your doghouse lacks adequate ventilation, the air may become hot and stifling during the summer, creating an uncomfortable environment for your pet. Holes in the back panel near the peak will provide good cross ventilation. Drill three evenly-spaced holes with a 1-3/8-inch spade bit with spur cutters (Image 3). Place a piece of scrap lumber directly under the hole locations to help reduce tear-out when you’re drilling through the plywood.

When you’re finished cutting out the pieces, sand all the edges with an orbital sander or sanding block with medium-grit sandpaper to remove any rough spots and splinters.

Build the Base

Assemble the base frame from the pressure-treated 2×4 parts. The base elevates the floor of the doghouse a few inches above the ground. This creates a dead-air space underneath the floor of the house that helps insulate the floor, and also helps keeps the floor dry. Cut the pieces for the base according to the cut list, using a power miter saw or circular saw. Always wear a dust mask when cutting pressure-treated lumber.

The 23-inch side pieces of the base run inside the 22-1/2 inches front and back pieces in order to hide the end grain from the front of the doghouse. The base is assembled with the pieces on-edge. Use a countersink bit to pre-drill pilot holes, and fasten the base pieces together using 3” galvanized wood screws — two screws in each end.

Place the bottom panel on the base and make sure all edges are flush and that the base is square. Fasten the bottom to the base using 1-1/4” galvanized wood screws, making sure to sink the screw heads just below the surface.

Man uses a drill to attach the wood pieces of the doghouse frame.

Assemble the Top Pieces

Cut the framing members from the 2x2s. Assemble the sides by fastening one 15-inch vertical corner framing member to each edge of the side panels (Image 1), making sure the framing pieces are flush to the edge of the plywood and even with the top of the panel. This leaves a 1-inch gap between the bottom of the corner framing and the bottom edge of the side. Secure each piece of framing with three 1-1/4-inch galvanized wood screws driven through the plywood into the framing. Set the side panels on the base, making sure the front and back edges of the side panels are flush with the front and back of the base. Secure the sides to the base with galvanized wood screws driven every 4-5 inches around the perimeter (Image 2).

With the side panels attached to the base, place the assembly on one end. Put the back panel onto the assembly, making sure the bottom edges of the panels are flush (Image 3). Secure the back panel to the vertical frame supports using 1-1/4-inch galvanized wood screws driven every four inches. Along the bottom edge, drive screws through the panel into the floor, making sure that the screw tips do not poke through the floor. Flip the doghouse over and repeat the procedure for the front panel.

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